Tuesday, November 30, 2004

Chiang Mai, Thailand

Chiang Mai, Thailand


“Afternoon haaaa” from Chiang Mai. This is how Thai women speak. When talking to foreigners, they’ll use just about any English word, followed by “haaaa”. Thai words get the haaaa appended to them as well. This is my second time to Chiang Mai, and much is the same as before. Same great medium-sized city feel, lots of shops at the night market, and many possible excursions to the hills surrounding it.

We arrived in Chiang Mai on the last day of a big Thai holiday (you know, that one). Like the Indians, they celebrate by lighting off fireworks, some of them producing wartime blasts (and the next day’s paper had a story about a kid who blew off his hand and killed his friend standing next to him). Unlike the Indians, they light mini hot air balloons into the sky. A huge cylindrical wick is soaked in something flammable, which is attached by string to a large closed paper tube. The contraption is held steady until enough hot air fills the tube that it begins to float; then it is set free. The sky was covered in distant floating lights, many of which reach heights you’d expect of air balloons. Some of the wicks are wired through time delay to fireworks, which drop out of the sky and explode once the contraption is treetop-high. I have some great pictures of all this, and will post them when I get home (had to archive them in a pinch to free up memory).

We saw a wat. They are called “wats” because that’s what you say when you leave them: “what?” Not that impressive (both the wat and my pun-based joke). It looked like our gompa from Tushita, only the Buddha inside was as high as the ceiling. I mean it would be a great place to meditate, but I’m not sure it deserved a dedicated sightseeing visit. There’s one wat complex in Bangkok we’ll see that I remember being much larger and more impressive.

Today, Kelly and I went to the Maesa Elephant Camp. I’ve never before seen so many elephants in one place. The visit centered around an hour-long elephant show, which was amazing. The elephants paraded around, with mahouts (trainers) on their backs, doing all sorts of tricks and performing many human-esque gestures. They kicked soccer balls (while another elephant tended goal), stacked logs, and flung their trunks around in a huge circle. After this, each was presented an easel and paint brushes, which they used to paint pictures. I wouldn’t have believed it without seeing it; I would have thought the mahouts guide their trunks or something. But sure enough, all by himself, the elephant closest to us drew a picture of a tree with flowers on it. His trunk was as precise as an artist’s hand (though he painted in broad strokes). While the painting was indeed impressive, the most impressive thing I witnessed all day was an excited elephant showing off what in this case can be referred to without hyperbole as his “third leg”.

The elephants we saw today were treated very well, a marked contrast from my previous Chiang Mai elephant visit. At Maesa, the elephants are trained from age 5, and throughout the compound are elephants being fed, bathed, and led around different parts of the camp. Due to the good training, the commands used to control the elephants are spoken or tapped out gently with baton thingees. Of course, there’s still a faint smell of exploitation, but no more than you’d find at any zoo or ranch. We enjoyed the elephants guilt free.

We return home in four days. It feels like so long ago that we were in Greece, or anywhere else we’ve been for that matter. Seemingly odd is that while these early destinations feel like forever ago, home still seems close. Unless my expectations are incorrect (never happens), I’ll snap right back into home life like I was never gone. But put me back in Greece, and I would…okay, well, it would be the same there too…HAPPY?

Back when it was 11 days to go, I reminisced a lot. Now that we have four days left, reminiscing has slowed, and I feel I am hurtling at light speed toward our flight home, and there’s nothing I can do to stop it. The days remaining are impossibly miniscule compared to the time we’ve been gone. I am experiencing a slightly surreal feeling at how fast the end has snuck up. When you’ve been gone for as long as we have, it’s hard to fathom that it will just end all of a sudden at a single moment.

That being said, I am really looking forward to home. In that sense, I haven’t changed all that much – I’m still looking forward to the next place, and this time that place is home. But enticing me further are friends, family, and all the comforts and extravagances of home. Without a doubt, the cherry on top of the icing on the cake (which is in a completely separate hemisphere from the straw that broke the camel’s back) is that I need not rush back to work, but can continue to be a total slacker, just domestically. It makes coming home just as fun as leaving. See most of you real soon!

Saturday, November 27, 2004

Koh Kradan, Thailand

Koh Kradan, Thailand


We just got back from Koh Kradan. This remote island is just off the coast of Trang, south of Phuket on the Andaman Sea. There is only one hotel on the island. Even so, we still chose to stay there (anyone done Landmark?). Our beach bungalow had air conditioning, but only from 6pm to 6am, when the electricity was activated. The island had almost nothing to do (the point of going there), and I was thankful for my magazines and iPod. I am nearly done rating my entire 7000 song collection. What can I say, it has kept me busy. Hopefully it proves as useful as I currently anticipate in my free-time-having mind.

Kradan was all about the snorkeling, the sole activity offered. Tour boats showed up every day to our beach with people from other islands – a testament to how good the snorkeling was. It was the best snorkeling Kelly or I have ever done. There was a reef that ran the length of the beach, about 150 yards from shore. This reef was teeming with all kinds of colorful fish, eels, starfish, coral, and sea cucumbers. We must have seen between 70 to 100 unique types of fish. Unlike many other places, the fish here were all extremely colorful. My favorites were the parrotfish (rainbow colored) and the clown fish, which is what Nemo is. The orange and white wavy striped pattern on these fish make them my absolute favorite. The clown fish would take refuge in a flowing anemone (or maybe it was moving coral), exactly like they do at the start of the Disney movie. They have the curiosity and grace of cats and the friendliness of dogs. I would swim down and extend my hand, and they would swim out from their sanctuary to investigate it. They lacked the personal buffer space of many other fish, fearlessly tracing different paths around my hand.

What weren't my favorite were the fish that were friendlier than the clown fish. During one outing, I was nibbled by an aggressive school. Kelly had the best explanation for why they were trying to eat me. I had earlier fed them from my hand a banana I found floating in the water. Kelly theorized that the stupid fish probably don't understand the banana as a separate entity from the person feeding them. So they just keep nipping hoping something else breaks off, or perhaps once I stop moving, all of me must be edible. The nipping didn't hurt, but I was surrounded by them and it freaked me out. I was on the shore in seconds.

The beach was blanketed with crabs, and by crabs I mean styrofoam. No, actually, these were real crabs. They each had dug a hole, some impressively deep, which they would retreat to as we walked by. I have decided crabs are the fastest land animal, once you normalize for step size. Each movement of a crab’s legs is a few millimeters, but they absolutely haul ass. Sometimes they couldn’t make it back to their holes and would retreat into the ocean as a last resort. One time I chased a whole beach full of them into the water, flailing my arms around and yelling to impress Kelly. The only ones I impressed, however, were the laughing Thais in the boats just offshore I hadn’t seen.

The amount of water shift from high to low tide was lunacrous. To show the difference, I took a Low Tide and a High Tide photo (labeled in the photo section) from the exact same place on the beach. A good 150 yards of beach was exposed during the afternoon and then submerged by nighttime. In the afternoon, we could walk all the way out to the reef, suck in our guts, and plot a careful course over the reef to avoid getting poked by the giant sea urchins. During high tide we couldn’t have even stood up in that same spot.

Feeling blue? Allow me to recommend a book I read called “The Damage Done”. This book is not very well written, yet provides a horrifically detailed account of an Australian’s 11-year stay at Bangkok’s Bang Kwang prison (his crime was trafficking heroine). Sweet mother of mercy, the Thai prison system is one of the harshest environments imaginable. If you ever are having trouble remembering how good you have it in life, I recommend you give this book a read.

Kelly and I are off to Chiang Mai now. Our trip is almost done. When I get some time I’ll comment on that.

Friday, November 26, 2004

Koh Samui, Thailand

Koh Samui, Thailand


Ah, Samui. Why didn't we just stay here for 5 months? Enough of these non-massage-centric countries.

I love Koh Samui. The downside to this largest island in the Gulf of Thailand is its relative development and crowds. Neither bothers me. What to Kelly was overcrowded was to me simply inhabited. The development enables what makes me love Samui, which is ubiquitous massage, internet, food, good coffee, and red bull (the Red Bull in Thailand is extremely potent, I think they add some bull horn to it). Samui, to me, has a fun, carefree atmosphere to it that fills me with good-natured energy. Kelly thought the vibe was too spring-breakish, but to me it seemed much more mellow and mature than that. The weather wasn't so great while we were there, which is typical for November. We got one nice sunny day, but the others were mostly overcast. Not an issue for me, though (you’ll see why next paragraph).

A typical day found us waking at around 10-11, and walking to Starbucks for a cappuccino and cinnamon roll. Anyone who scrunches his/her face at the thought of Starbucks coffee has not tasted non-branded Southeast Asian coffee. From there it’s either back to the resort to lounge beachside (to read or iPod), or off to the stores for a little clothes shopping (Kelly only). Lunch rolls around soon enough, so it’s a stumble to the resort restaurant for pad thai, green curry, or whatever suits the palette that day. Digestion takes place in the cool internet cafĂ©, where emails can be checked, pictures can be posted, and online poker can be played. By this time a hopelessly small amount of tension has built up, so it’s off to knock that out with a two-hour massage. Then it’s back to the room for a little CNN update and a shower. Then off to a fresh fish dinner eaten at a restaurant relocated nightly onto the sand. From there, two options emerge. Either we hit the bars, sipping red bull and Thai whiskey until a huge grin spreads across our faces, or we stroll down the main drag of shops by night, stopping to purchase $2 latest release music CD’s and share a freshly opened coconut anointed with two straws.

There's massage, and then there's a two hour Thai massage for $10. I saw the same woman every day, who kneaded, stretched, and cracked me, herself pressing, leaning, and standing on me as necessary . I've decided Thai massage is probably the best of all the massage styles, both in terms of how good it feels and how much it relieves muscle tension and brings peace when it's complete.

During one seafood dinner on the beach, Kelly and I were approached by a 10 year old boy, shaved except for a crop of hair sticking up in the very front of his head (a style I've seen on other Thai kids). He slapped a Connect-4 rack on the table and challenged me to play him for 100 Baht ($2.50). Game on (I agreed). I took time to contemplate my every move, each of which was met by a split second decision on the part of Prodigy (the name I am giving him). He went first, and clearly had a pre-planned countermove for every of my possible moves. The most embarrassing part was that I didn't even see his Connect-4 coming before he sprung victory on me. Oh well, it's like a form of charity. I used a magic trick on him for double or nothing. When the rug got pulled out from under him, he was so afraid he had lost his 100 Baht, his face showed no amazement. Of course, I paid him anyway.

The embarrassment of my loss was nothing compared to that caused by my walk back to get 100 Baht for Prodigy. He and his flower-selling cohort came with me. On the way, I noticed tiny white crabs scuttling along the beach. There were dozens of them moving together, and they seemed to be moving much faster and more erratically than possible for crabs, which impressed me. At first, I thought they might not be alive, but sure enough, I put my foot down and they scampered right around it. The kids were laughing their asses off at my amazement. Prodigy picked one up and threw it at me, falling to the ground with laughter when I ducked for cover. Their laughter made a lot more sense ten minutes later, when I noticed a motionless crab by our dinner table. On further investigation, the crab (like the others) turned out to be a miniature ball of styrofoam. Did I mention it was real windy?

One afternoon we took a taxi to a local waterfall (intelligently named Waterfall 2). It was really majestic and foresty there. Toward what we thought was the top, a Thai self-appointed himself as our guide and helped us climb the ridiculously steep and treacherous journey to the actual top. At the summit was a tiny swimming hole where we (predictably) swam. During our hike we got some great photos, which say a lot more than I am writing here.

I was sad to leave Samui, but it was time to try out the remote beaches of the Andaman Sea.

Wednesday, November 17, 2004

Indiacompetence

The day we left India, she reared her incredibly incompetent, frustrating side no less than three times.

I had been double charged by Jet Airways for our flight from Bombay to Goa. The woman at the counter rang up my total for $10 too much, so after signing the first Visa charge, she had me sign another for the correct amount, saying she would void the first one. The void never showed up on my credit card, so I've spent the past several weeks on the phone getting the run around as I try to resolve the matter. This process culminated in me walking into Jet Airways' office in Delhi. After explaining my situation, the clerk asked for my receipts or ticket stubs. I told him I didn't keep any of that, having thrown them away after the flights were completed. At this point he threw me a "what can I do about it" face, saying without evidence, how could I prove I had been double charged. He next insisted that I produce a credit card statement showing the two charges, which I explained would have to come from the internet. I tried in vain to explain I mainly took the plane. Oh, whoops, I mean...I tried in vain to explain that a printout proved or disproved nothing, since if they had indeed issued a credit, I still could produce a printout showing the double charge but not showing the credit. With Tweedle-Dee still insistent, I rushed (our cab was about to arrive to take us to the airport) to the internet cafe and came back with the printout. Tweedle-Dee took it in the back room, and five minutes later Tweedle-Dum (in a suit) came out, and explained to me that they don't handle these situations in this office. There is a special woman who handles credits, she's 10km away, and I will need to visit her. My Buddha nature was nowhere to be found; instead I was single-pointedly meditating on what a prick this guy was. I got semi-loud and indignant at how horrible their service was. They had made a mistake to the tune of $400, and I was expected to run around to all their various offices to get it corrected. Nobody I talked to on the phone or in person (I had also gone to the office in Jaipur) wanted responsibility for the problem, so they just said they couldn't do anything. I tried to explain I was leaving and could he please call the woman and correct the problem on my behalf. He just kept explaining they didn't handle that. What a wonderful teacher this guy was to show me where I still had to work on my anger...prick.

This was organized incompetence at its finest. But our final day in India also produced staggering individual incompetence, which somehow failed to materialize as noticeably during the previous two months. We saw another Hindi movie ("Veer Zara"), and at the entrance they forced me to hand over my camera's battery. I thought this was an ingenious way of ensuring you don't take pictures, so long as the patron is not counter-ingenious enough to bring a spare battery. When I returned to pick up my battery, they produced it wrapped in tape holding an identifying tag on it. It was non-removable tape, something akin to scotch or packing tape. After trying to remove it, the guy had to help me by producing a razor to scrape off the residual sticky parts from my sensitive electronic component. I have tried, but I simply cannot understand how they have not come up with a better way of identifying the battery than wrapping it in tape. It is obviously a common thing they do (the guy didn't flinch when he asked me to remove the battery). It would seem the "logic" being employed is use whatever approach gets the job done on the front end, back end be damned.

The most horrifying display of back end sacrifice, though, happened at the watch shop. Thinking back on it now, perhaps I should have known better. But the sunglasses and watch store in the shopping complex looked very legitimate. I handed over my ($200 Swiss Army) watch so they could replace the dead battery, visually verifying they had the correct tools behind the counter. She told me to come back in 15 minutes to get it back. When I did, I noticed the backing on the watch was uneven at one part. It was raised off the back, which I showed her by having her move her finger against the ridge, which was rough to the touch. Obviously (I thought), she had erred when re-attaching the backing, and it needed to be re-done correctly. To my horror, when she took the watch back, she produced a gigantic metal file and - wait for it - began filing down the offending protrusion. I put a quick stop to her "final solution" and resolved to try to salvage my watch at Swiss Army headquarters when I get back to the States. She was prepared to destroy the literal back end of my watch to hide the evidence that it was re-applied with all the precision of Bam Bam.

I left India angry. It didn't last long, though. And it certainly didn't dampen my appreciation for the country. But man, if you chart the difference in intelligence between some of the lower-echelon service industry personnel and the upper-echelon software engineers that are stealing American jobs, the result will resemble a graph of monkeys versus monks. Tushita is not the only place in India where both of these are found.

Kelly and I are now on Koh Samui. Our plane got into Bangkok at midnight, and we decided to hop a flight to Samui at 6am the next morning (choosing to do Bangkok on our way out). Samui is just like I remembered it, except it is now strikingly clean! Either that or I've come from India this time instead of California. Also, the beach is totally washed out; waves are pushing right up to the bungalo fronts. When I was here two years ago it was in September, and there was ample beach and a lake-like ocean. We'll stay here a bit, then head by boat and land to the Andaman side surrounding Phuket.

Thailand feels so incredibly nice after India! The cab rides are like floating on a bed of pillows, the food is insanely good, the people are remarkably friendly, everything is modern and clean, and stares at my girlfriend are limited to a more acceptable say-you're-good-looking-and-now-it's-time-to-avert-my-gaze. I miss the cows, but it's really nice to see the dogs here are all fat and happy. I intend to join them.

Sunday, November 14, 2004

McLeod Ganj, India

McCleod Ganj, India


McLeod Ganj feels like a small ski town (reminiscent of Mammoth). It is home to a roughly equal number of Tibetans and Indians, and because of this feels almost like a different country. The Indian culture took over during Diwali, however, as Indians came out of the woodwork to celebrate a holiday that is like Christmas and New Year’s rolled into one. They celebrate by lighting off fireworks. My amygdala let out many expletives as M10000’s exploded in the streets. On our walk back from dinner, everyone was loitering in the streets, lighting firecrackers and throwing them on the ground or at each other. At the main center of McLeod we watched a 30 foot strand of firecrackers go off...pretty cool. Apparently in Delhi and the bigger cities they will throw them at tourists, so we were lucky to be in the mountains. We were also lucky we arrived at the Delhi train station the day after five people were crushed to death in the Diwali train rush.

Kelly and I visited the home of His Holiness the Dalai Lama (or as Kelly calls him: double H D L). It was very modest overall, and contained a couple of gompas and a square where the monks debate. We didn't see it live, but on a friend's video camera we saw that after each is done speaking, they slap their hands toward their opponent to indicate it's their turn to rebut. We visited the Tibetan museum housed in the compound, which documents the tragic history of the Tibetan people, who have been abused mercilessly by the Chinese.

Just outside of McLeod Ganj, I visited the Karmappa, who is the highest monk in a sect separate from the Dalai Lama’s. I brought in tied together strands of bracelet rope (is there a word for that?), which he blessed by touching them. Are you thinking what I'm thinking? Dutch auction on eBay! Come on, how common can blessed bracelet rope be? I had all of about 3 seconds with the Karmappa; the assistants keep the blessing line moving quickly.

I also tried Tibetan massage, which was good. It was somewhat similar to Swedish or deep tissue, but was slow and methodical and used a few pressure points. The only part that caught me off guard was when I removed my shirt and my masseur remarked, "Nice body." Even stranger than this comment was that I wasn’t put off by it.

Kelly and I fly to Thailand tomorrow, which will be our last country before heading home. It should be a relaxing destination after India, but of course any country is relaxing after India.

Saturday, November 13, 2004

Tushita, McLeod Gang, India

Tushita - McCleod Gang, India


May all sentient beings enjoy happiness and the causes of happiness;
May they be free from suffering and the causes of suffering;
May they never be separated from the great happiness devoid of suffering;
And may they dwell in the great equanimity that is free from attachment and aversion.


Kelly and I have been paroled. We completed our 10-day Introduction to Buddhism course at Tushita in McLeod Ganj. Make no mistake, 10 days of nothing but meditation and lessons in Buddhism is a very long time. That being said, it was a fantastic, life-altering experience.

After checking in and getting settled, I quickly discovered a few huge problems. First, there were no napkins in the dining hall. As some may know, I have a passionate napkin fetish. There must be one, and preferably two, napkins on my lap during every meal. As well as providing needed finger wiping and lap protection, napkins instill in me a sense of security while eating that definitely crosses into obsessive-compulsive territory. Second, my two standard-issue blankets were wholly insufficient to protect me from the nightly cold. Tushita resides at 7000 feet, and this time of year is very chilly. Its atmosphere contains not the typical dry, crisp mountain air I am used to, but rather a wet, piercing cold - the kind that easily seeps through walls, blankets, and clothes. Having given all our pre-purchased wool pashminas to Kelly (protocol at Tushita required that Kelly and I sleep in separate dorms), I hardly slept the first night, as I tried to warm the many frozen parts of my body. Most everybody else had sleeping bags. In order to keep pace, on day two I emptied the Tushita store of wool pashminas, and slept toastily from then on. As for the napkins...well...life is suffering.

Our days consisted of morning and afternoon Tibetan Buddhist teachings, sandwiched between meditation sessions (the complete schedule shows the details). The morning teachings were led by Jimi, an ex-monk who has been involved with Buddhism for 30 years. My first impression of Jimi was that of a rambling, hippie Donald Rumsfeld. His teaching style was stream of consciousness; he would start talking, and continue branching from topic to story to topic as each reminded him of something else. At first I was put off by his apparently cluttered mind, but as his teachings continued, I relaxed and gave up trying to learn from him in an organized manner. After letting go (and after he warmed up over a few days), I quite enjoyed his anecdotal style and sense of humor. “Hey, is that Buddhism, man? Well, turn it up!” Jimi was our western teacher.

Our afternoon teachings were led by a Tibetan Lama, whose name I can’t remember. Lamas are head honcho monks. The Lama’s teaching style was totally different from Jimi’s. His points were painstakingly logical and organized, providing a nice contrast. He would sometimes try to make a point so desperately that he would restate it in essentially the same way many times. Lama was very charismatic, issuing questions and hypotheses with great enthusiasm and commitment. He was almost convincing when he insisted “It is true!” after telling stories of the Dalai Lama’s birthplace being revealed to a master through a vision in a parted lake, and of men transferring their consciousness into sheep. Lama was our eastern teacher.

An Australian nun (I forget her name) led our morning meditation sessions, which were "single pointed". Single pointed (also called mindfulness) meditation is an attempt to quiet your mind and focus on only one thing. For us that thing was our breath at a single point, our choice of either our abdomen or the tip of our nose. On day seven, I had an amazing morning mindfulness meditation. It was the deepest meditative state I achieved in the course. The meditation process involves recognizing and labeling your thoughts as they come up, then letting them go and returning to your focus of concentration. Once I left the gompa (prayer center) in my relaxed state, my mind flooded with labels for everything I saw and felt: "bush", "sidewalk", "fresh air"…it was quite surreal. More importantly, I was in a state of bliss, completely free from any thoughts other than those at the current moment. The bliss was striking, actually; if you had told me I had been drugged, I would have easily believed it. Then again, I can also achieve a state of bliss from a strong cappuccino. I reported my experience to our discussion group leader (a new monk from Chile) and was reminded not to get attached to my good experience, but just to notice all the good and bad experiences impartially. I like these Buddhists.

Pam, an American nun, led our evening and nighttime meditations, which were "analytic". Analytic meditation involved Pam issuing soft questions and scenarios on a given topic, such as death or attachment. While she spoke, we would internalize the concepts she was presenting, and draw conclusions for ourselves. We did many of these meditations, and my experiences with them ranged from soul searching to horrible boredom.

In the middle of the day, our class of about 40 students would head to afternoon yoga. This brought a needed physical break from all the stationary mental exercise (although yoga itself involves meditation and breathing). Our yoga instructor (a native San Franciscan) was very good. He cracked me up, though, because at the top of every class he would explain that today we would focus on breath, or today we were really going to work on the physical postures, yet the routine was the same every day. At one point, he gave us a choice of what we wanted to work on the next day. The class told him what we wanted, and he acknowledged what we had chosen at the beginning of the next day’s class, but then led an identical routine again (I’m talking pose for pose). Thankfully, it was a good routine.

Animals are an integral part of Tushita. Though a few cows surrounded the area, the dogs and monkeys ruled the roost. One bitch lives at Tushita, and she was in heat for almost our whole retreat. The two male dogs at Tushita, as well as several from the surrounding area, assaulted her constantly. Actually, assaulted is the wrong word, since she seemed more than willing. The male dogs growled and fought with each other constantly, trying to ensure as many pups as possible would bear their fur color. The monkeys were no strangers to humping themselves. Tushita was crawling with them. Some were aggressive, like the one that charged Kelly for her chocolate bar. But many were docile, and would let us get very close for observation and photos. While we were meditating in the gompa, entire monkey families would traipse along the roof, sending loud clanking sounds which seemed deliberately intended to ruin our concentration. My favorites were the babies that dive bombed their way through the tops of trees – almost every branch supports their weight, so they haphazardly flop all over the place. We found out that after we checked out, the monkeys went rifling through the rooms, sniffing everything for food content.

We were instructed to keep silence at all times during the 10 days except during our discussion groups (one hour per day), and when asking questions during class time. The class mostly adhered to this. Keeping silent was very strange at times, especially during meals and in my dorm of four people. Not until I got into bed the first night did I realize we had no way of checking with each other to make sure everyone was cool with turning the light out. If you think I eat quickly during normal meals, you should see me fly through a meal when there is no conversation and the food is a three-times-a-day let down. About halfway through the class, people started to slack off a bit and have whispering conversations with each other in remote corners of the compound. I can’t blame the talkers…the Tushita staff practically begged us to cheat with teacher comments like, “Everyone is saying what a quiet group this is!” Some students later claimed to be disturbed by the whispering, but to my ears it was remarkably quiet and peaceful. After our last meditation session on day 10, we asked if we could now begin talking. Our instructor didn't explicitly tell us yes or no, but was reluctant to give the green light just yet. We all proceeded to the dining hall, and could not keep quiet any longer. Midway through our chatty meal, an earthquake struck. It was fairly small, but all of our meditations on the acceptance of death went out the window as everyone desperately scrambled for the exits. After the short quake stopped, our instructor yelled out with a grin, "That's what you get for talking!"

After three days I realized, quite painfully, that Tushita is constructed to provide no fun, pleasure, excitement, or stimulation of any kind. It ensures one has nothing to look forward to at any time. Normally during a rigorous 10-day class I would look forward to meals and breaks. But at Tushita the food was prepared to ensure the mouth did not water, and due to the silence vow the breaks were merely another chance to delve deeper into the mind. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not nearly as rigorous as the Vipassana Center next door, whose 10 day course consists of nothing but dead silent meditation from 4am to 10pm every day. Still, by day three I was in a "get me out of here" mindset, as my brain struggled with nothing to look forward to. By day four I started to get some waves of contentment, but on day five, time stopped. I mean that literally; my watch ran out of batteries. But I also mean it figuratively; the day took forever as I dragged along in agony. This was largely due to the cumulative effect of the food.

Yes, I must speak of the food. I let out a mental "uh oh" at the first night’s dinner, which was soup and bread. There was a point at which I was hopeful that after the huge trough of soup was gone, they would bring out the next course. Sadly, once the soup was gone, dinner was over. The kitchen prepared only vegetarian meals, which by itself isn’t a problem. The problem for me was the meals were ludicrously healthy – by far the healthiest food I have ever eaten. But while it was healthy, I’m not sure how good for the body it was. Every dish was carefully prepared so as to contain absolutely no fat, sugar, or protein. Fat and sugar were simply nonexistent, and the only protein came from beans, which cause their own problems if eaten in large quantities. Drinks at mealtimes were a choice between water and tea. I slowly developed an omnipresent gnawing hunger. After the first few meals, I would be "full" for about two hours, then be hungry again. Soon after that, I would arrive to meals hungry, yet sick to my stomach in anticipation of the meal I was about to eat. It’s hard to imagine being hungry yet not wanting to eat, but that feeling had taken over after a few days. It wasn’t that the food was bad; rather, it was mildly tasty health food. It was just that my body knew it was going to get none of what it is used to living on (no meat, cheese, sugar, etc.), and after a while my stomach clued in that soup is almost all water. All this hunger culminated in my becoming weak, dizzy, and extremely agitated by day five. I began to empathize with what Survivor contestants go through on the island. I finally broke on day five and walked down to town (which turned out to be closer than I thought) for a real meal. One chicken tikka (protein), french fries (fat), and Fanta (sugar) later, all symptoms vanished immediately. That night I lay prone, smiling almost unconsciously as if injected full of heroin. From that day forward, I shot up once a day with a meal from town.

The last two days of the class were structured as an all-meditation retreat. Our lectures stopped and in their place we meditated, which amounted to six hours of meditation a day. Day one I was calmer than I’ve ever been, but by day two I was crawling out of my skin. Average those out and you can see I successfully followed the Buddhists’ recommended “middle way”.

During our classes, we learned a lot of the specifics of Buddhism (like the four noble truths, the path out of samsara, etc.), but I will not spell out any of them here. You can get that stuff from a book. Instead, I will give some of my overall impressions, pieced together through absorption from my time at Tushita. Buddhism is a very tolerant religion, which is part of what makes it so attractive. For instance, they believe in ending the suffering of every sentient being, but we were told there were monks who are not vegetarians (May all non-delicious sentient beings be free from suffering and the causes of suffering). They encouraged us to try on everything they taught, and keep only what made sense to us. Another thing I simply adore about Buddhism is that there is no element of preaching to it. There is no desire to convert people to Buddhism; in fact, their standpoint seems to be that it is often better to stick to your existing religion. The logic behind this is that (most) all religions promote the same self-growth and truth seeking that they encourage. They readily endorse Buddha, Jesus, and Mohammed as divine beings, in a very non-offensive way (there was an Indian Catholic priest in our class who was there to try meditation…he loved the class).

One tenet of Buddhism is to look internally instead of externally. Robina, a now rather famous Australian monk who is the subject of the documentary film “Chasing Buddha” (and who also taught the Tushita class before ours), tells how she spent her pre-nun days as an activist trying to change the world, later realizing she needed to change herself instead. This way of looking at the world often manifests itself in subtle ways. For instance, Buddhists believe in putting the needs of others, including animals, above their own. But this belief doesn’t (always) manifest externally. Rather than make sure every (external) animal has eaten before he has a scrap of food, a monk’s focus is on increasing his (internal) mental capacity for loving kindness, so that he may achieve enlightenment (become a Buddha) and become most beneficial to all beings. Also, Buddhists acknowledge a huge distinction between understanding something intellectually versus understanding it personally (I’m using this word "personally" just for convention). A good example is emptiness. A Buddhist would say that "Mary" doesn’t exist independently in the world, but rather is made up of all her body and mind parts, each made up of cells, each made up of molecules, etc. They use the concept "emptiness" to refer to the notion that Mary (and every other thing) does not in reality exist independently, and therefore should not be regarded as an independent entity. This concept (for me) is easy to understand intellectually. But when Mary has just gotten through chewing you a new one in front of a group of people, you would have had to have spent years training your mind to keep your cool, realizing there is no "Mary" actually insulting you.

Somewhere during the retreat, I had a big breakthrough in an area I wasn’t expecting: anger. For 32 years now I have been hell bent on convincing other people that I am right about [any subject]. Going into the retreat, I was already prepared for the logic battles that were about to take place over beliefs in karma and reincarnation. I was definitely going to be right that they do not exist; it was just a matter of whether I could find anyone sane enough to see that I was correct. Coming out of the retreat, I have a completely different attitude about this. I will share my mental shift here to inform, but also largely to repent to the people (everyone) I have steamrolled with my worldviews. I really regret that I have done that so consistently.

I tend to start off casually enough, debating a point with someone out of intrigue or boredom. But I then quickly become angry when my “opponent” doesn’t see my point of view. In my mind, I am clearly right, and it is frustrating beyond belief that the other person can’t see that. I didn’t realize before just how much anger plays a part in my reaction, and how that anger is self-generated. Intellectually, I understand that I can’t always be right, but I don’t understand it personally. Every time a debate arises, it is one of the times I really am right! My change in attitude, which I intend to make permanent (oh please brain don’t snap back to your old ways), takes place on two levels.

First, even if I am right (say I’m arguing 2+2=4), there is no need for me to become angry when someone disagrees. I have a strong need to be understood, and when someone denies me this satisfaction, it infuriates me. This is an illogical reaction; there is just no good reason for this to cause anger. Instead, I can have compassion for someone who thinks the answer is 5. Compassion is a much stronger choice. Second, 99% of the things I’m arguing have no clear-cut answer like "4". They are almost exclusively subjective topics. I have really come face to face with my arrogance in thinking I’m always on the correct side. I confronted it by (predictably) getting riled up during the retreat, then dealing with the feelings internally. My new approach, which is much more sound, it to apply the same skepticism to my own views that I previously reserved only for the views of others.

With this newfound humility, I have also reached a new perspective on scientific discovery and its limitations (science is often at the core of my self-righteous beliefs). Recently, fossils were found of a 3-foot tall, fully-grown human in Bali that lived only 13,000 years ago (very recent in evolutionary terms). The locals of the area had repeatedly told folk tales of shy, hobbit-like creatures that used to live on the island. If one of the locals had told me they believed the small humans existed, I would have instinctively ridiculed them for believing folklore over science. Two months ago, archaeologists “knew” such miniature humans never existed so recently in history. One lucky dig later, and science has a totally different opinion, suggesting the folklore was correct. There are myriad examples like this of scientists reversing previous positions as new evidence arises. So, especially when discussing topics like the human mind or the existence of an afterlife (areas where science has very little knowledge), I now feel every opinion should be respected. Specifically, I have a much more open mind to beliefs based on folklore. Just about all of my opinions on these subjects (and others) are still the same, but I now regard them as best guesses, which warrant no arrogance and obligate no convincing of others.

I also have a new perspective on seeking. Seeking is the term I use to describe the eternal search for more and better that all humans conduct. It manifests as the search for the perfect lover, the better job, the newer television, and the prettier clothes. For me, seeking often transcends even these categories, turning into a completely undefined project to find the "next big thing". I have made steady improvement over the past several years in taming my seeking, which I think I have a tendency to do more than most people. My new realization is that seeking is a horrible response to boredom and dissatisfaction, which (for me) are what seem to necessitate it. Paradoxically, when I feel the most like seeking is the best time to do just the opposite. A much better approach is to slow myself down and get a hold of my racing mind. I gained this perspective after observing my desire to seek disappear through meditation. Slowing the mind and getting in touch with the present is a great reminder that there is nowhere to get to. This is an important realization, because the search for the next big thing in the long run leads to emptiness. No sooner is it discovered than it begins its decline into the same old thing. Of course, as humans we will always have some level of seeking, and there are times when it really does seem to bring happiness (for instance, during a five month trip around the world). I now believe it is important to balance out this human condition with awareness that pegging your happiness to a perceived better future is a mistake.

Friday, November 12, 2004

Autobiography in Five Chapters

"Autobiography in Five Chapters" by Portia Nelson

1) I walk down the street.
There is a deep hole in the sidewalk.
I fall in.
I am lost…I am hopeless.
It isn’t my fault.
It takes forever to find a way out.

2) I walk down the same street.
There is a deep hole in the sidewalk.
I pretend I don’t see it.
I fall in again.
I can’t believe I’m in the same place.
But it isn’t my fault.
It still takes a long time to get out.

3) I walk down the same street.
There is a deep hole in the sidewalk.
I see it is there.
I still fall in…it’s a habit.
My eyes are open.
I know where I am.
It is my fault.
I get out immediately.

4) I walk down the same street.
There is a deep hole in the sidewalk.
I walk around it.

5) I walk down another street.