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| Cinque Terre, Italy |
We saw Simon and Garfunkel at the Roman Colosseum. It was a good show, or at least it seemed like it from where we were. There must have been many tens of thousands of people out for the show. Kelly and I actually got there 5 hours before the concert, and had spots right near the stage (50 to 75 yards away). While I held the spots, Kelly left to check on a hillside view we had spotted on our way into the main stage area. She returned, claiming it was a great spot. I wanted to stay where we were, but the security had closed off the front section where I was, and they wouldn't let Kelly back in. Decision made. We left and went to the grassy area, where we were all alone. At least we were alone 5 hours before showtime. By the time the show started, the grassy area, as well as everywhere around it, was packed. I was sure we would be able to hear and see the concert just fine from where we were, but it turned out to be hard to hear (and we couldn't see at all). We could hear alright if we cupped our hands behind our ears like satellite dishes and bent our ears forward a bit (have you tried this? It's amazing how well it works). We ended up walking around a bit during the concert, finding some places where we could hear well, but the thick crowds triggered Kelly's claustrophobia. I must admit, I was bummed we hadn't stayed where we were originally, but there was no way to know that was best until afterward. Even though our concert experience was close to the sound of silence, I tried to feel groovy, since an island never cries. Also I said bye bye to my love little Suzie who I wanted to wake up (the Everly Brothers played too, but come on, what can you do with only two popular song titles?).
We left Rome and made our way to the Cinque Terre, where I am writing from now. We've been here 4 days, and are planning to leave tomorrow. It's a real nice little area. We're staying in Monterosso, the largest of the 5 cities. Yesterday we hiked to all 4 others (quite the little 5 hour hike, much of it straight up or straight down). We were saved by the weather - it has been cloudy since we got here. The hikes would have been simply brutal if the sun were out. The towns are each distinct, but the other 4 all feel more authentically small-townish to me. They've got more cobblestone (or whatever) buildings and walkways, have fewer shops, and are physically smaller. If I return, I will stay in Vernazza, my favorite from the quick glances we got. It wasn't worth it to move our bags there to stay, however, as we found an awesome apartment in Monterosso. Same price as the cheapest hotel, and three times the size (plus it has a washer).
The Cinque Terre is where pesto was invented. How much better/different could it be from pesto anywhere else? A whole lot, it turns out. Specifically at one restaurant named Miky's. Holy carbohydrates was it good. They make each pasta in a big dish which they cover the top of with dough. The dough cooks until it puffs up with steam (visual: picture an old fashioned stove popcorn container), finally springing a hole and spewing steam from the top like a geyser. Once cooked, the dough tastes very much like Naan bread, only its underside is moistened from the pasta goodness. The pasta itself was indescribably good. We loitered like starving cats outside Miky's last night hoping it would open again, but it was closed on Tuesdays. Tonight we feast again!
The other restaurant we tried was not as good as Miky's (though still good, mind you, this is Italy). The lowlight at the time, and therefore the highlight I will mention here, was when I wanted to know the fish of the day. Our waiter fetched his feisty daughter/random-female to make the English with us. It went like this:
Me: What's the fish of the day?
Her: Ogardshva (or whatever...it was nothing I'd heard of)
Me: What's it like?
Her: Fish.
Me: (Trying harder) What...is...taste....like?
Her: Ah.....you know......FISH!
Me: Gracie.
She was right...it tasted like fish. Speaking of, we've eaten our fair share of fish, each with an unwelcome plethora of little bones. They serve the fish whole on the plate, complete with eyes, gills, and (worst of all) bones. After a meal of picking the tiny annoyances from my mouth as I sort them from the fish (a task reminiscent of tying a cherry stem into a knot, which I cannot do), I vow (temporarily) never to order fish again. Can't they invent a boneless fish? I mean come on. I was sure that invention would be right on the heels of the seedless watermelon.
Kelly and I are off to Venice tomorrow, or at least to somewhere on the way to Venice. Also, I found a firewire connection, and was able to retrieve and post the photos from Athens, which are in a new folder on the photos page. More Rome photos and Cinque photos in a few days. Enjoy.
